Exploring Northern Laos

Posted on February 1st, 2011 • 34 Comments

Categories Food, Laos

I’ve just returned to Luang Prabang from an altogether too-short foray into Laos’ north, replete with cave spelunking, markets teeming with new foods to try and a seemingly endless stream of smiling, giggling children. And soup. Lots and lots of soup. As it was with my initial days in Burma, words seem inadequate to describe the loveliness of these last days. I will say this: Northern Laos is crazy beautiful. Up at dawn to see the mist off the Nam Ou river and fading behind Nong Kiow’s huge limestone cliffs, then a series of lazy river trips on rickety boats, hikes through teeny villages and evenings sharing delicious food with newfound friends.

When the view from your window is this:

and your breakfast is this:

What else do you need?

I’ll be heading to Vientiane in the next few days and taking the bus across the border, back to Chiang Mai. Until then, I’ll be eating as much soup, grilled pork and sticky rice as I can handle.

More to come from Laos, as well as the first of the Thrillable Hours posts. With no internet access this past week I’m behind schedule but will catch up shortly, once I’m back in Chiang Mai.

-Jodi

Tags: Food, Laos

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34 comments to Exploring Northern Laos

On February 1, 2011 at 8:07 am Michael said:

Not bad of a window view!
Glad you’re having a good time.
On February 1, 2011 at 8:38 am Amy said:

Wow, that first picture is amazing. (Well, so is the soup, but I got a little souped out after three weeks in Laos. One day, I ate soup for every meal). We did the usual circuit in the middle and then went south, but looks like north would have been awesome too. Future trip, I suppose.
- On February 2, 2011 at 8:36 am Jodi Ettenberg said:
  
  Hi Amy! Currently in Vientiane after a long bus ride from Luang Prabang, and dinner was Indian food as I’ve been souping-it-up for the last week! I won’t get to see the South this time as I’ll be returning to Chiang Mai, but it too looks beautiful. As you said, next time!
On February 1, 2011 at 11:10 am Irena said:

Looking forward to your Laos posts. Don’t laugh but I really got interested in Laos after reading mystery books by Colin Cotterill. Most enjoyable…
Take care.
- On February 2, 2011 at 8:39 am Jodi Ettenberg said:
  
  Not laughing. After all, I was the person who went to the Philippines because I was obsessed with a tiny lemurlike creature (the tarsier) so no judgement from this end ;)
On February 1, 2011 at 12:19 pm Jeremy B said:

Wow, that is beautiful! I don’t know much about Laos but didn’t expect scenery like that!
On February 1, 2011 at 12:46 pm phil said:

Jodi,
Sounds (and looks) amazing! Very jealous!
On February 1, 2011 at 2:41 pm Amy said:

BEAUTIFUL picture!
On February 1, 2011 at 3:26 pm Andi of My Beautiful Adventures said:

I would say a cup of coffee and then you don’t need anything else! What a GORGEOUS view!
- On February 2, 2011 at 8:41 am Jodi Ettenberg said:
  
  Don’t worry, I had a cup of coffee. Laos is known for it, and I’m terribly grumpy without a coffee in the morning!
On February 1, 2011 at 8:15 pm jill -- Jack and Jill Travel The World said:

What else do you need? Nope. Nothing else. Laos seems like a lovely place to visit…
On February 1, 2011 at 10:30 pm Kim said:

Wow, absolutely stunning. I’ll take that view from my window any day.
On February 1, 2011 at 10:37 pm Cheri Lucas said:

What?! (Re: the top photograph.) That’s insanely beautiful.

I explored Vientiane a bit (passed through from Nong Khai) and it was cool seeing the influences of the French in storefronts and facades — swirling art nouveau lettering on windows, for instance. It was a long time ago, though, and I don’t recall as much as I’d like. It was very quiet when I visited, which I loved. I couldn’t get enough of the food, either.

Have fun exploring, Jodi.

Cheers,
Cheri
- On February 2, 2011 at 8:44 am Jodi Ettenberg said:
  
  Thanks Cheri. I ust arrived in Vientiane and it’s quite the nosy, crowded place compared to the north. Looking forward to exploring tomorrow, starting with the morning market. Did you explore other parts of the country outside VTE?
On February 1, 2011 at 11:20 pm Audrey said:

We took one of those small boats with tiny kindergarten stools (yes, imagine Dan on those stools for 8+ hours) from Luang Prabang to Nong Khiaw many years ago. It was one of the most beautiful boat trips ever – the scenery is spectacular and the kids running and waving as the boat passed was just priceless. Your gorgeous photo at the top brings back great memories.

Can’t wait to hear more about the areas further north! And, of course, all the soups you tried along the way.
- On February 2, 2011 at 8:46 am Jodi Ettenberg said:
  
  Ha, Dan stuffed into a tiny boat does provide quite the picture! The boats I took had no stools at all, meaning that when the water seeped through the side panels, it went straight for our laps. Agree that the scenery is gorgeous; it’s hard not to fall into cliches when describing it! Sad to miss you two in Thailand but I’m looking forward to hearing all about your time in Bangladesh.
On February 2, 2011 at 12:14 am Ruth said:

Jodi,

Please tell us exactly were you went in Laos. I think you are going to discuss this in upcoming posts. If not, let me know where you went. I am always interested in learning about new places. I haven’t heard a lot about Northen Laos.
- On February 2, 2011 at 8:51 am Jodi Ettenberg said:
  
  Hi Ruth, plenty more to come – fear not! In the interim, check out travelfish.org’s site as they’ve got a lot of comprehensive information.
On February 2, 2011 at 4:36 am Mikeachim said:

I looked at that first picture, and my head exploded.

I’m billing you for a new head.
- On February 2, 2011 at 8:52 am Jodi Ettenberg said:
  
  I will pay you in tarsiers and marshmallows, per the prior invoice.
  - On February 5, 2011 at 2:28 am Johnny Vagabond said:
    
    Wow, you really ARE a lawyer ;)
On February 4, 2011 at 5:36 pm Theodora said:

Mmmmm….. Lao foe! I love it. And the views. We’re back here in the middle of the year, I think. Can’t wait!
On February 5, 2011 at 2:27 am Johnny Vagabond said:

I loved Nong Kiow! Planned on staying 1-2 nights and finally left 4 days later. Quiet peaceful and friendly — cheap too!
- On February 5, 2011 at 5:04 am Jodi Ettenberg said:
  
  It was all of those things! Really enjoyed Muang Ngoi too – did you get there?
On February 5, 2011 at 2:43 am Andy Jarosz said:

Looking forward to reading about your northern Laos adventures Jodi – particularly what you did and where you ate in Nong Khiaw. It was my favourite spot in the whole of Laos, not only for the breathtaking scenery but also because we found the most delicious freshly home-baked key lime pie!
- On February 5, 2011 at 5:06 am Jodi Ettenberg said:
  
  Hi Andy, will be posting a bit on my trip and likely a small roundup of where I stayed and what I ate too. Sadly, I can’t eat pie – celiac = no wheat for me! No baguettes in Vientiane either. But plenty of steamed rice crepes, great soups and coconut and banana desserts to keep me entertained. Thanks for the comment!
On February 7, 2011 at 7:41 am Fab said:

Northern Laos is great, great people and amazing landscapes, and still quite wild, especially if compared to northern Thailand. I’ve been travelling for 3 months in SE Asia and probably is the place that I loved more ( I spent there 3 weeks and I visited more than 50 villages, always on my own, no touristic tours ), though also Burma ( where I am now ) is pretty fantastic, and I still have to see the northern part of the country.
BTW: I also climbed mt. zwegubin near hpaan and I spent the night in the monastery, what a wonderful place!
Ciao! ( from Bagan )
- On February 7, 2011 at 10:10 pm Jodi Ettenberg said:
  
  Glad you enjoyed all those places too. Did you get chased up Zwegabin by a pack of monkeys, or was that just me?
  - On February 9, 2011 at 8:37 am Fab said:
    
    Yes, they were very nasty, one almost bit me!! But I took very nice pics in the morning of the monk feeding them with a giant basket of rice…
On February 8, 2011 at 11:20 am Leng said:

That IS an exquisite view to wake up to! Can you see the sunrise/sunset from your window, too?
- On February 10, 2011 at 4:28 am Jodi Ettenberg said:
  
  No, but a quick walk brought it into view, in technicolour. For 40,000 kip ($5), I’m not going to protest… :)