I spent November in Istanbul, in awe of the evocative, beautiful architecture and delicious food. I also got a much-needed haircut. When I finally left England for some consulting work in Amman, I could have booked a flight through one of the countries in the Gulf, or via Istanbul. It was slightly more expensive to fly through Turkey, but my friends Cheri and Nick were going to be in town and I really wanted to see them. Also, I needed another haircut. So I returned to what has quickly become one of my favourite cities for 4 nights before continuing on to Jordan.
Sulemaniye Mosque, Istanbul, shot through a pinhole
While not the usual Myanmar photoessays or posts about Morocco, I wanted to write this short piece to provide a ringing endorsement for my tiny salon in Sultanahmet. Yes, it is slightly ridiculous that I hopped over to a whole new country for a haircut and a few drinks with friends. But having had my locks sheared to bits by a Thai hairdresser and shredded by an Ecuatorian hairdresser, I was fairly excited to find this lovely lady, Sevgi, to cut my hair:
Post-haircut smiles
The salon has a man’s shaving and haircut room in the front, and a separate door to lead into the women’s part of the building at the back. It’s a five second walk from Agora Hostel where I tend to stay (personally recommended by a friend and a wonderful base to explore the city) and two extra minutes of walking will put you directly between the Blue Mosque and Ayasofia. Not a bad place to pop in and get a trim.
[Note: I was going to include the bonus fact that the salon has a ridiculously cute duck in front of it, adopted by the block's restaurants and roaming the sidewalks for all to enjoy. However, two days before I returned to Istanbul it was hit by a car and is, in the words of its owner, 'is kaput.’ Sad face.]
The Sultanahmet Duck (RIP)
For those of you interested in a cut or shave of your own:
Salon Kadir, in Sultanahmet
Cankurtaran Meydanı #10 (Opposite Cankurtaran train station, near Topkapı Palace)
www.salonkadir.com
Next up: a Thrillable Hours interview with a former peacekeeper turned yogi and a crash course for Marrakesh, Morocco.
-Jodi
I am a former lawyer from Montreal currently eating my way around the world, one country at a time. Traveling since April 1, 2008. See the 
Ahhh, I can definitely relate after getting my hair absolutely ruined in Paris–took months to grow out. I discovered someone absolutely amazing in Melbourne, and truth be told, I’m tempted to move back just for the sleek cuts and excellent fringe trims. And that duck! So cute, so sad.
So sad, I know! It was a friendly, cute duck. Glad you’ve found your own place in Melbourne :)
I love the fact that you flew to Turkey for a haircut. Looks great, by the way.
Thanks for the update!
Mark
Thanks Mark! Thanks for following along.
Great pic of the Mosque. And, of course, your haircut looks very nice.
Thank you Dave! I’ll be doing a series of photoessays from Turkey as the pinhole shots still make me smile and I look forward to sharing them. Hope you and Jessie are well.
The hair looks great! I like it better than the bangs! :)
Oh, the bangs. I’m never going to live those down, am I? I concede, it was a giant mushroom on my forehead.
How much did the haircut cost? Btw interesting how the Turks have effortlessly adapted the French ‘coiffeur’ into their vocabulary by simply changing the spelling ;)
It was about $15, which – while more expensive than the ones I got in Asia – is still much cheaper than at home and didn’t shred my hair to bits. Yes, some of the words in Turkish are very recognizable (most not so much) ;)
Love how this post is about your haircut. The layers *did* look great!
It seemed more than a bit narcissistic but it was also the reason I went to the ‘bul and hopefully she’ll get some business out of it too! Searching for the address was quite a challenge but I’m glad I found it. Also, RIP cute duck :(
I’m always in search of a good haircut … might have to travel to Istanbul more than ever now ;)
Well, with the food and the architecture I’d say it’s well worth your time! Really didn’t know what I’d think about Istanbul but it’s quickly become one of my favourites.
Pretty haircut…and poor duck!
I was badgered into a trim in Shanghai while walking near the Bund. All the hairdressers sported elaborate “Flock of Seagulls” hair. I failed to get the price up front, my mistake. At the end I was quoted an outrageous amount, leading to a comical shouting match.
Much better: my Turkish barber in Copenhagen.
But how did the haircut look at the end of the Shanghai Debacle? :)
You look gorgeous no matter what your hair cut looks like! ;-)
That 1st pic is so beautiful!!!
Thank you Andi! I’m excited to share the photoessays from the walks around town as Istanbul is most definitely photogenic.
Oh it was fine, not up to the prevailing synthesizer band standard but fine. The argument was ridiculous, like Al Swearengen trying to communicate with Mr. Wu on “Deadwood.”
+1 for the imagery!
I got a fresh shave in Taksim Square, hadn’t had the straight raze and lather up for a minute! Those Istanbullys know how to do their hair cuts and shaves.
It’s true! My guy friends in Turkey tell me they also burn the hair from your ears and nose – did that happen to you? Apparently the full shave includes an aggressive hair-removal too.
I’ve become a pro at discarding potential salons. If the hairdresser has a mullet, run the other way. If you can’t tell immediately if the hairdresser is a boy or a girl, run the other way. If you explain what you want, the hairdresser makes a perplexed expression and then says, “I know what to do,” with scissors in hand, get out of the chair.
These are all very wise rules.
It was nothing special as a haircut (I don’t have enough hair to get excited about,) but memorable nonetheless. In Santiago, Chile I wandered into a random salon and encountered an extremely jovial Colombian woman. As she finished and admired her work, she told me that now I was ready to “conquer” Chilean women. When I told her that I was married, she said, “You are so handsome your wife will understand.” Big tip.
Jodi! Just wanted to drop a line and say how lovely it was getting to meet/chat with you at Agora that night. Love the site, especially the sections on practical travel tips. Hope to run into you again in future travels. Let us know if you ever decide to visit the Southeast U.S.!
Stephanie! I’m sending you an email too. Really enjoyed getting to know you both over wine and doners, and looking forward to hearing how your work and studies are going.
I had one of the best haircuts ever in Istanbul, too! It was a salon in Beşiktaş near my friend’s apartment. After cutting my own hair for the previous year living in Uzbekistan, I really needed it.
Oh my gosh! I also got a haircut when I travelled in Istanbul last year! I couldn’t stand my flying strands of hair. Although there was a language barrier, the hairdresser was very patient and even offered us some Turkish tea. :)
I don’t think it’s ridiculous to go to another country to get your haircut. I’ve been living out of my home country for six years now, and am totally scared to get a haircut overseas. It’s hard enough to get it done right when I can explain what I need in English! What are my chances in Spanish or Chinese. Thanks for the tip though- perhaps an excuse to go to Istanbul…
It’s definitely tough and even translated from a friend, I’ve had haircuts go terribly awry abroad! As places to travel go, Istanbul’s a fine one :)
Here’s a haircut story for you. In Phuket Thailand, I walked across the road to a salon for a haircut. The women said they didn’t do male hair, but took me outside, onto a motor-bike and rode me a km up the road. 25 minutes, plus a head and neck massage later, I handed over the princely sum of $2.60 for a great cut! Jon
crap! i wish i knew about this salon before my trip to IST!! this would’ve been fun!!
I can understand though I’ve never had a bad haircut in another country. While traveling solo in Africa, I took my hair into my own hands and cut my locks with, what else? Swiss army knife scissors.
I figured most African woman have never cut a white gal’s hair and I rather give it a go and be upset with myself with my new hairstyle than someone else.
In the end, it inspired me to cut my hair more often and occassionally cut my own hair!