A Celiac’s Gluten Free Guide to Portugal

I spent several months in Portugal, one in Lisbon and the rest on the island of Madeira. I traveled there initially to speak at a food conference; I stayed because I did not want to stop eating with friends. From fresh seafood to perfectly steamed vegetables to satisfying soups, the country left my taste buds hankering for more. This gluten free Portugal guide shares some of what was safe, what was off limits, and the lessons I learned in the process the hard way—I’m looking at you, yellow mustard.

Portugal’s emphasis on quality ingredients as the building blocks of their meals made it easy to find food safely. As with many countries, snack time is the hardest — on-the-go sandwiches are off limits, as are the amazing pastel de nata tarts, though gluten free versions have popped up around town.

The country’s grocery items were clearly marked for celiacs—a sticker applied to packaging states that it is gluten-free. As part of the European Union, manufacturers are required by law to disclose any allergen, including wheat, rye, barley, or oats, and these are identified in bold on the ingredient list. Where they are gluten free, in Portuguese they would often say isento de glúten.

For eating out, many menus of the day (larger lunchtime meals) include a simple grilled main with roasted potatoes, vegetables, and rice. These were almost always safe. Check the list of foods below, and bring the gluten free card with you, to double check. Grilled chicken and piri-piri chicken was almost always safe, unless made using a marinade or broth that had wheat. I did not have any trouble with this in Portugal, though I have at Portuguese restaurants abroad.

I hope this guide helps you eat safely and enjoy your time in one of my favourite countries!

A detailed gluten free restaurant card for Portugal

This detailed gluten free restaurant card will help communicate your eating restrictions, and allow you to understand what is safe and unsafe from the menu.

Note: The card is available for purchase via Gumroad, a trustworthy 3rd party site that uses https, so you know your information is safe.

Why is this Portuguese translation card different?

I used several different translation cards on my travels, and I still got sick. I may be more sensitive than some celiacs, but even a small amount of oil for frying that had prior contact with gluten, or wheat-thickened sauce in the food, is enough to make me ill for days. Let alone the joint pain later that week, and the fatigue. And regardless of whether we feel it or not, ingesting any amount of gluten is a problem if we are celiac.

This card is different because:
✅  Immediate download, sized specifically for mobile. You can save it to your phone and have it with you as you travel, or you can print it out and laminate it to take along. I will also send a second downloadable file, a PDF version that is easy to print, with English on one side and Portuguese on the other so that you can follow along.
✅ It uses local ingredients and lists of what you can/cannot eat help you eat safely, not just “I can’t eat gluten”.
✅  Unlike less-detailed cards, this card explains that surfaces or oils that have cross-contact with gluten are also unsafe.
✅ It is researched by a celiac and goes through two sets of translations to ensure accuracy.

An English translation of the card’s contents will be emailed to you after your purchase.

A big thanks to Celia Pedroso for translating this card from English, as well as offering up her own suggestions for this guide. She offers food tours in Lisbon via Culinary Backstreets – and can ensure that they are safe for celiacs.

Quick phrases: while the card above contains the safest way to communicate celiac disease in Portugal, here are three quick phrases that you can also use

I have celiac disease and I am intolerant to gluten, do you have anything that’s gluten free?
Tenho doença celíaca e não posso comer glúten. Você tem alguma coisa sem trigo/sem glúten?

What gluten free options would you recommend? Que opções livre de glúten você recomendaria?

Does this food contain wheat or gluten? Essa comida contém trigo ou glúten?

Eating gluten free in Portugal: dishes, ingredients, and snacks

These are commonly wheat-free in Portugal, confirmed by the translator and myself (having traveled in Portugal). As with any destination, it’s best to confirm on a case-by-case basis that no flour was used for thickening purposes, as it’s possible that some restaurants will do so as it’s an easy go-to for sauces and stews. For the basics, trigo, cevada, aveia e centeio (wheat, barely, oats, and rye) are what you don’t want to eat.

• Arroz doce – a typical Portuguese rice pudding dessert served with cinnamon.
• Caldo verde – a common vegetable soup that contains potato and greens, and sometimes includes the popular Portuguese sausage, chouriço.
• Feijoada – a bean stew typically served with pork and/or beef on rice. Note: ask if the sausage in the feijoada is farinheira or alheira, in which case it should be avoided. Rarely was this the case, but if so it’s off limits, so important to ask.
• Codorniz Assada – roasted quail, a traditional delicacy in Portugal. Roasted with garlic, paprika and Portuguese white wine.
• Tremoços – lupini beans, a traditional Portuguese snack, often served in bars with a drink. Want to try them at home? I have a recipe for them here.

• Sopa de abóbora – a smooth and sweet traditional Portuguese pumpkin soup.
• Grilled meat – double check marinades, sauces and seasonings being used. Also confirm that it is not cooked on a shared surface with gluten-containing foods.
• Doce de amendoim – a traditional candy of peanut brittle.
• Rojões – a fried pork dish from Northern Portugal.
• Sardines in cans, or fresh, and other fresh seafood, though as noted in the “unsafe” section below, it’s wise to check ingredients for any canned seafood with sauce.
• Salted cod, called bacalhau, is safe “as is” (dried salted fish by itself) but be wary of it when it is on the menu as it’s often re-constituted with water and cooked with flour and other ingredients.
• Caldeirada – a delicious fish stew made with a variety of fish and potatoes. Confirm that no flour has been added to thicken the soup.
• Cured meat like maranhos, goat sausages that are typically stuffed with rice.
• Chouriço sausage, mint, parsley and paprika, and wrapped in tripe.
• Tripas À Moda do Porto – tripe cooked with beans, bay leaves, and meat, served on rice (so tasty).
• Capão Recheado – stuffed capon, traditionally stuffed with chestnuts and eaten Christmas Eve.
• Dry roasted nuts with no seasoning other than salt.
• Batatas a muro – smashed roasted potatoes or fried potatoes – double check that it is not fried in a shared fryer with gluten-containing ingredients.
•  Milho frito – baked polenta with herbs that is then cut into cubes and fried. Double check that it is not fried in a shared fryer with gluten-containing ingredients.
• Castanhas assadas – roasted chestnuts, a traditional Portuguese snack, especially during the São Martinho (St. Martin) festivities in November.

Gluten free groceries and shops in Lisbon, Porto, and beyond

There are quite a few places to buy gluten free supplies if you are visiting Portugal, from high-end supermarkets to organic stores.

Portugal’s Celiac Association lists gluten free stores or places that sell gluten free items, organized by city here. They also note that:

You can also find the APC logo on supermarket products as a way to identify what is gluten free. Continente, Pingo Doce and Jumbo are supermarkets with a lot of naturally gluten free products of their brands.

• Celeiro: Health food shop that has a large variety of vitamins, organic food, and gluten free products. The website lists each of their locations around the country.
• Brio: Another health food store with organic products and gluten free options.
• Pingo Doce: A budget-friendly supermarket that I went to for rice cakes, which I ate a lot of with that amazing Portuguese cheese. They also had gluten-free cereals and crackers, even if the particular franchise was extremely tiny.
• El Corte Ingles: More expensive department store with a gluten free / bio section in each of their grocery stores.
• Bioforma is mostly on Madeira (it has quite a few outposts in Funchal and beyond), but also has a shop in Lisbon, in Moscavide north of Lisbon, and in Porto Santo. You can order online as well if you’re spending a while in Madeira. Lots of gluten free products on offer.
• If you’re in Portugal for awhile, Glutamine has an online store with a wide variety of gluten products to choose from. It started in 2004 to fill what was then a big market gap in the lack of GF foods, but has expanded its offerings over the years.

If you want to cook yourself, the Portuguese Celiac Society has a list of gluten free recipes here.

Gluten free restaurants and bakeries in Portugal

Please note also that McDonalds in Portugal also has certified-safe buns, practices, and menu for celiacs if you’re in a pinch, unlike in Canada or the United States.

For restaurants certfied by the Portuguese Celiac Association, you’re going to want to look for this trusty sign:

Gluten free restaurants and bakeries in Lisbon

When I lived in Lisbon, I tended to eat as I wandered, and most restaurants were able to accommodate me easily. There was always a grilled protein, vegetables, salads, and a side dish that was safe for me, even if I had to avoid some spots with shared fryers. That said, in recent years there has been a proliferation of gluten free options and dedicated gluten free establishments.

So let’s get to the food!

• Inspira Hotel’s restaurant is certified by APC and has lunch and dinner menus full of delicious treats and desserts, much of them gluten free.
• Open Brasserie Mediterranica in Lisbon has a gluten free menu, organic food, and focuses on sustainability, and is worth a visit.
• La Trattoria also clearly marks their menu with ‘no wheat’ for their gluten free items, and was delicious
• Gluten free pizza with many creative toppings (or you can make your own) at Spanish chain Totale Pizzeria, now in Lisboa.
• Rice Me Deli is accredited by the Portuguese Celiac Association (APC) and can be accommodated to vegetarians and vegans as well. Their menu is a honestly a treat: croquettes, crunchy and gluten free; glutenproteins and mains to go with their namesake rice, soups, charcuterie plates, risottos, and more — and of course there’s always dessert.
• Pistola y Corazon, Mexican food in the heart of Lisboa. Homemade corn tortillas, many gluten free options on their daily menu. And MEZCAL, oh the mezcal. (Sure, they’ve got tequila too, but with a part of my heart in Oaxaca, it’s mezcal forever over here.)
• For those with a sweet tooth, Gelato Davvero has gluten free cones and gelato to choose from — as well as locations in 3 cities. Choco & Mousse has gluten free cakes on offer, and they’re ridiculously good. They also serve a fully gluten free breakfast.
• Vegan and vegetarian places often serve gluten free dishes, and Jardim dos Sentidos is no exception.
• Honest Greens is another Spanish franchise that has opened in Lisbon, and has bowls, salads, and great sides to eat, with many gluten free options and knowledgeable staff.
• I was obsessed with the duck rice at Ze da Mouraria. Be warned, bring 4 people because the portion size is insane.
• Gluten free pasteis de nata (REJOICE, EVERYONE, AND GO STUFF YOUR FACES IMMEDIATELY) at Zarzuela in Lisbon.
• The Time Out Market in Lisbon has a slew of stalls to choose from, highlighting some of the best places to eat in Lisbon. Their piri-piri chicken stall was gluten-free, and amazing. Many others to choose from and the best part is you can wander around and keep eating for hours.
• Certified by the APC in 2023, Sam Bolos e Doces Saudáveis has cakes, tarts, cookies, energy balls, truffles, and just about any other sweet you can stuff in your mouth — all gluten free.
• Another shop certified by the APC is Despens6. Billing itself as a healthy pastry stop, they’ve got a lot more than just pastry — their gluten free menu includes sandwiches, crepes, eggs, pastries (of course!), salads, and some great side dishes, as well as dessert.
• Chutnify Lisbon: Southern Indian food is full of gluten free treats, and this great casual spot is in my Germany gluten free guide. Now they’ve got a Lisbon outpost, full of dosa for your snacking needs. Truly one of my favourite things to eat!
• For those of you, like me, who love sarasin (buckwheat) crepes, Crêperie du Bairro has 100% buckwheat options, both savory and sweet, for celiacs and non-celiacs alike. (They’ve also got other crepe options for the non-celiac set)
• For fresh seafood that will make your eyes pop, Phoebe from Feed me Phoebe recommends Pinoquio over the more-famous Ramiro. I tried Ramiro and it was fine but not stupendous; I’m excited to give this other option a try during my next visit.
• I’m For Real is a fully gluten free take out spot with pizza, bread, and great salads, certified by the celiac association.
• Cantina Do Avillez is another fish-filled reco from Phoebe, with gluten free items clearly marked on the menu. She swears by the fish curry and I see no reason to disagree.
• Beiju is a “tapiocaria,” specializing in all things tapioca – a grain that is naturally gluten free. From sweet pancakes to savoury cheese breads, this chain — they also have other locations in Porto. Note that they’re not a 100% gluten free facility – they do serve some dishes with croutons and whole wheat pasta, so best to make sure what you’re getting is safe when you visit.
• Lisbon has a GROM now! Can’t miss their delicious gelato and gluten free treats. They also sell their tubs of ice cream in convenient snack sizes around town. If you can’t get to Italy, GROM can at least come to you.

• And if you weren’t full up on Italian-style gelato just yet (is there even such a thing?!), also check out Scoop, which is 100% gluten free — including those waffle cones — and certified by the celiac association. They’re also on IG here.

• Batarda’s is 100% gluten free and serves amazing breads but — and this is why it’s amazing — also different flavours of rissoles, Portuguese croquettes/turnovers that are covered in breadcrumbs. These ones are safe for celiacs, and amazing.
• Pans & Company is a fast food sandwich shop certified by APC to safely make gluten free sandwiches on baguettes. They have a few locations in Lisbon.

Gluten free restaurants and bakeries in Porto

• A special mention for Tasquinha do Bé in Porto, which offers gluten free francesinha (as per the below, a Portuguese sandwich served with cured meat, sausage and topped with a tomato and beer sauce.) Call ahead for reservations/notice for this dish, as it’s a popular one and they need prep time. This restaurant is not 100% gluten free, but does have gluten free beer and is aware of celiac disease and the stringent requirements.
• Com Cuore is a 100% gluten free bakery in Porto. Everything is safe, and everything is delicious!
• Italian Restaurant Sergio Crivelli is accredited by the Portuguese Celiac Association and has a full gluten free menu online to peruse. It’s located not far from Porto, in Matosinhos.
• Happy Cookie is 100% gluten free and vegan and has sweet and savoury cookies, chocolates, and other treats on offer, including the classic chocolate chip, banoffee, and much more.
• 100 Culpa is 100% gluten free and offers a variety of open-faced and other sandwiches, healthy bowls, salads, pancakes, and treats in Porto.
• There’s a Porto Honest Greens as well, on Rua Santa Catarina — great spot for a quick meal that’s safe and delicious.
• Celícias – Gluten Free Company in Vila Nova de Gaia, near Porto, sells cakes and cookies that are fully gluten free, with curbside pickup or purchase in store.
• Pizzeria Italiana Con Essenza in Maia, just north of Porto, is certified with the celiac association and has plenty of dishes for celiacs to choose from.

Gluten free restaurants and bakeries in the Algarve (Albufeira, Faro, Lagos)

• In the Algarve, see O Grão da mesma mó, certified by the celiac association. It offers cakes, breads, and rice dishes for celiacs to enjoy.
• For stocking up on groceries: supermarket Apolonia has a lot of gluten free products on offer, and several locations in the Algarve, and so does Intermarché Super.
• Barbosa Bar & Kitchen in Lagos one of those places I’ve described throughout, where there isn’t a dedicated GF menu but the staff is knowledgeable and you can easily find something safe to eat — especially with a translation card. Great, fresh seafood, fish, and meat on offer, with vegetable sides and (as with many restaurants) a dedicated fryer for the fries — do confirm the fryer is still safe when you go, though!
• The Green Room also in Lagos makes gluten tacos, enchilados, tortilla chips, and other snacks with corn. There are wheat tortillas on the menu, so confirm what you’re ordering is safe and fryer is not shared.
• Poke Lagos has poke bowls as the name suggests, with a clearly marked menu that notes where gluten-containing ingredients are used, and several dressings that are gluten free. They also make sweet non-poke bowls with acai and other delicious and refreshing fruits.
• KISA’ Real Italian Food serves Italian food, with a side of live music and a lot of gluten free, celiac-safe options to choose from. GF pizzas, pastas, salads and many other treats on the menu; it’s a great option for a GF meal in Lagos.
• Beats and Burritos is a Mexican-Californian restaurant serving burritos (obviously), tacos, bowls, or quesadillas, with gluten free items marked on the menu. And don’t worry, they’ve got margaritas to wash it all down.

Gluten free baked goods and restaurants in Braga

• Bonna Pastelaria Gluten Free is a 100% gluten free bakery that sells pizzas, bread, pastries, croissants, desserts, and more. Certified by the celiac association.

• Soul – Alimentação Saudável e do Bem is as the name suggests: a healthy and good place to eat. A vegan pastry and food spot that is also 100% gluten free, they are a dessert haven of cheesecakes (without actual cheese!), brownies, cookies, cakes, and more. At the time of writing, they also had a few savoury quiches on offer.
• Paladares Vegan is another 100% gluten free and vegan spot in Braga selling hearty sandwiches, soups, heaping lunch plates of salads and mains, and delicious cakes and cookies for dessert.

Gluten free restaurants in Madeira (Funchal and beyond)

I spent three months in Funchal, exploring, eating, and loving every moment of my time there. An archipelago in the Atlantic Ocean, Madeira is a Madeira is a volcanic island located 560km off Africa’s north-west coast, considered an autonomous region of Portugal, one of two. The other autonomous region is the Azores, covered below. Initially claimed by the Portuguese via explorers João Gonçalves Zarco and Tristão Vaz Teixeira, who landed on the island in 1419, the island’s strategic location made it a crucial stopover for ships navigating the Atlantic, especially during the era of transatlantic trade. Madeira’s fertile soil and mild climate also contributed to the cultivation of sugarcane, which became a major economic driver in the region during the 15th and 16th centuries. The prosperity brought by sugarcane cultivation led to the development of Madeira’s infrastructure, including the construction of manmade irrigation systems known as “levadas” that are still in use today. Madeira’s vast levada network spools across an impressive 3,100km (on a fairly small island!), but as BBC reported in January 2024, has a dark history enslaved people doing much of the dangerous, backbreaking work.

Funchal, the capital city of Madeira, has played a central role in the island’s history and development. Its name derives from the Portuguese word for one of my favourite veggies, fennel (funcho). Don’t miss the Sé Cathedral, a beautiful example of Portuguese Gothic architecture; the Monte Palace Tropical Garden with all the plants you could ask for, a cable car up to the top of the island to see the vistas below, and the Mercado dos Lavradores, one of my favourite markets.

In terms of food, madeira had a lot of naturally gluten free options, though there are dedicated gluten free spots as well (as you can see below). As with the rest of Portugal, you’re often able to get a plate of the day or main dish of grilled meat or seafood, prepared gluten free and on a grill that doesn’t have breaded items. Side dishes include salads and grilled or steamed vegetables, as well as milho frito where you can find it gluten free (no shared fryer) — which is common, since most places I visited did use separate fryers. This also meant that french fries were almost always safe.

Foods the island is known for, that you can look for gluten free versions of when visiting:

• Espetada: Skewered meat, typically marinated in garlic, salt, and bay leaves, and grilled vertically over an open flame. Usually made from beef, with veggies like grilled bell peppers and onions, and accompanied by milho frito.
• Bolo do Caco: A sweet potato flatbread, served warm with garlic butter spread on top. Almost all places include wheat flour, but if you find one without, please do give this a try!
• Lapas: Madeira is renowned for its seafood, and lapas are limpets pulled from the rocky shores of the island and cooked in garlic, butter, and herbs. Often served with a side of bolo do caco — so make sure you ask about wheat.
• Espada com Banana: A breaded, fried scabbardfish (espada) cooked with bananas. You’d need to find a spot with no shared fryers and GF breading, but this dish is a Madeira-special, and I can tell you I never heard of scabbardfish until I visited so it was a fun thing to try. The caramelized bananas really pair well with the pan-fried fish.
• Milho frito: Madeira’s version of fried polenta, milho frito is made from cornmeal cooked until firm, sliced, and then fried until crispy. IT IS SO GOOD. Again, you’ll need to confirm that it is not fried in a shared fryer, nor thickened with wheat. I was able to safely try this side dish many times during my time in Funchal, and I loved every bite.
• Madeira wine: ok, this isn’t a food, but Madeira is renowned for its namesake fortified wine, produced in a variety of styles from dry to sweet. It’s made via an aging process that includes heat, and is often paired with desserts.
• And finally, one of my favourite things I ate: a tomato and onion soup with poached eggs that is popular on the island. My friend Sofia, who was an incredible host and ferried me around the island to show me the sights, has her mother’s recipe on her site here. This recipe does not have gluten in it, but many restaurants in Funchal did use gluten as a thickener, so make sure to ask before trying.

To the roundup:

• Bioforma, the shop noted above under “groceries”, also has a restaurant attached to some of its locations. Given the shop’s focus on healthy eating, their restaurant follows the theme: it offers organic, local, products with options for gluten-free, vegetarian, or vegan meals. As always, confirm CC before ordering.
• Gluten Free Express – as the name suggests, is our kind of place. Started by the parents of a celiac child, they built this shop to allow celiacs to eat more safely on Madeira. It’s a small shop with gluten free products like pastas and cookies, crackers, and other dry goods, and a freezer with prepared foods as well as treats. Not for dining in, but a great bet for those with a self-cater option.
• MadCuba Funchal – Cuban food, with many dishes naturally gluten free. Be sure to ask about use of chicken stock in the rice, and whether the fryer is safe (it was at the time of writing!)
• MadMarket – unaffiliated with MadCuba, this spot highlights Portuguese and Madeiran specialties, with a modern touch. They are accommodating to food restrictions, including celiac disease, and their menu notes different allergens gluten among them. As always, confirm CC concerns, and ask about the fryer and the chicken stock used, if any.
• Portaliano – pastas, risottos, and other Italian dishes that can be made gluten free, as well as your standard fare of grilled meats or fish. Side dishes and salads also available to be eaten safely and staff is aware of and able to accommodate celiacs.
• Martucci Pizza Funchal – readers report this spot has gluten free pizzas but to confirm before ordering that they are cooked on a separate pan in the oven to avoid CC.
• Black Pearl – has gluten free buns and burgers that are made without wheat or other gluten in the fillers. Confirm no CC when cooking the bun, and that shared fryer is safe if you’re indulging in the fries. Staff was knowledgable at the time of writing, but with no certification it’s important to ask each time.
• TerraFood Concept can accommodate celiacs, and while it’s more costly than the average meal in town, it’s a lovely spot for a fancier meal with quality ingredients. This spot wasn’t yet open when I was there, but readers report great success in dining there as celiacs.
• X Tonel Restaurante has gluten free items clearly marked and a set menu that can be made fully gluten free. A-la-carte items also easily adapted to GF dining, and staff is knowledgeable about celiac disease. The restaurant is centrally-located and offers a mix of Madeiran dishes with some international food. Open for lunch a dinner.

Gluten free restaurants on the Azores (Ponta Delgada)

• In Ponta Delgada Longe da Espiga is a 100% gluten free bakery that sells bread, Portugese egg tarts, tapioca cheese balls, cookies, and more.
• Also in Ponta Delgada, you’ll find Restorante Ramires, making the Portuguese-style roast chicken I grew up with and loved in Montreal. The fryer isn’t shared for the fries, so these are safe (at least at the time of writing), and the menu is marked for gluten and other allergens. This is a sister restaurant to Ramires in Albufeira, which opened in 1964—or a version of it, that served snacks and bar food. The founder started making his BBQ chicken and demand grew enough to expand past his cafe and into a restaurant. In 2014, this outpost in the Azores was opened.
• Another Ponta Delgada option for some delicious grilled dinner is O Churrasco, with a menu divided into fish, meat, and chicken. Fresh seafood appetizers and mains, side dishes to accompany your protein, and vegetable crepes for the vegetarians among you, this spot will hopefully satisfy anyone in the region. Staff knowledgeable about cross-contact, and the fries were in a dedicated fryer.
• And speaking of vegetarian, if crepes don’t do it for you, you can try Rotas, a fully vegetarian restaurant that opened in 2006 in a cozy setting. Gluten free menu items are marked, and they offer a 10 Euro menu of the day / set lunch option for those who want more than just a main dish.

Gluten free restaurants, bakeries, and hotels in the rest of Portugal

• H2otel Congress & Medica Spa in Covilhã has been certified by the Portuguese Celiac Association and has on-site restaurants that can safely accommodate celiac diners.
• Nearby Hotel Purala, also in Covilhã, is similarly certified by APC and can make gluten free meals and desserts without worries for any traveler.
• And, lastly Sport Hotel Gym + Spa in Covilhã is also certified. Travelers to Covilhã have no shortage of hotel food options!
• Also certified is the Pena Park Hotel, in Ribeira de Pena in Northern Portugal (northeast of Guimarães). Their staff will be able to accommodate any meals when visiting the area.
• Fully gluten free, Boca de Leão in Póvoa de Varzim, offers sumptuous cakes and tarts, as well as other desserts. Started by Teresa Bernardes, who wanted to build an inclusive sweet shop that her celiac daughter (and others with food restrictions) could eat at happily.
• Not far from Lisbon is the city of Seixal, where you’ll find 100% gluten free bakery Glutenout. Breads of all kinds — paleo, integral, focaccia, and more — as well as banana bread and other treats.

What ISN’T gluten free in Portugal

During your visit to Portugal these are foods that you should avoid, and are not safe for celiacs.

• Quite a lot of desserts, as with most countries we visit! Pasteis de nata (custard tarts), almond tarts, coconut cookies, and serradura (sawdust pudding – pudding with crushed cookies).
• Sangria. I KNOW. But I found that bars added beer to their sangria occasionally, so be sure to ask. Or, you know, just stick to Portugal’s world-famous wines instead!
• Seasoned rice: some restaurants will cooked their rice in bouillon, unfortunately Knorr is the monopoly in this game. Since their bouillion cubes have wheat in them, I tended to ask for plain white rice and if the restaurant did not have any, I got roasted potatoes or veggies instead.
• Trinchado (braised beef) – flour is typically used to thicken the sauce of this traditional spicy Portuguese dish.
• Migasà Alentejana – a savory bread pudding served with meat.
• Bacalhau pie – a traditional Portuguese cod fish pie, which contains flour in the béchamel sauce.
• Acorda – Portuguese bread soup.
• Some sausages and charcuterie contain wheat, such as alheira and farinheira sausages. It’s important to ask if they have flour or bread in them as a thickener. I found more charcuterie than not was safe, compared to travels elsewhere in Western Europe, but it’s always important to ask. Alheira definitely off limits.
• Francesinha – Portuguese sandwich served with cured meats, sausage and topped with a tomato and beer sauce.
• Broade avintes – a traditional bread from Northern Portugal.
• Bolo de serta – a flatbread made with corn and what flour, or bola de carne – flatbread containing meat.
• Queijadasde batata doce – sweet potato cupcakes popular in fall.
• Cozido à Portuguesa – a stew of various meats and vegetable, which sadly uses blood sausage that has wheat in it, as well as often include alheira.
• Rissole -a small croquette rolled in breadcrumbs, usually baked or deep fried. The filling has savory ingredients, most often minced meat, fish, shrimp, or cheese. Often a side dish.
• Meat or fish that has been breaded or battered.
• Meat or fish canned with sauces: check ingredients before eating.

• Toasted nuts and dried fruit with seasoning, as these were often dredged in flour first.
• Note that yellow mustard (I KNOW RIGHT?) often contains gluten in Portugal! Check labels before using.

Best books to read about Portugal

For those of you looking to visit Portugal, here are some wonderful books to help inform your visit.

Guidebooks

• For those wanting an idea of what to do in Lisbon, the 101 Coolest Things series has a new guide to Lisbon available here. Also see Roads and Kingdoms’ Know Before You Go for Lisbon here.
• For a more long-form guide to Portugal, I used the Lonely Planet Portugal book. The link is to their newest edition (published September 2021).

Historical Reads About Portugal

• Conquerors: How Portugal Forged the First Global Empire, by Roger Crowley. The Portuguese legacy lies in its former empire, including the foods that it helped spread around the world.  This fascinating book details how Portugal, then a poor nation, catapulted to global dominance by relying on the adventurousness and skill of its crop of explorers. One of my favorite books.
• Living in Portugal (2007), by Anne De Stoop. Coffee-table style book, full of huge photographs and beautiful descriptive text.
• Lisbon: A Cultural and Literary Companion (2002), by Paul Buck. A literary walking tour through the streets of Lisbon, focusing on history.

Food books

• Portugal: The Cookbook, by Leandro Carreira. A 2022 publication with a stunning cover, this huge cookbook (550 recipes!) shares dishes from coast to coast, from stews to soups and pastries to make your mouth water. Wonderful introduction to the variety the country has to offer.

• Authentic Portuguese Cooking: More Than 185 Classic Mediterranean-Style Recipes of the Azores, Madeira and Continental Portugal, by Ana Patuleia Ortins. Long list of recipes from the many different provinces and islands of Portugal. It’s rare to find a book with each area covered, but this one certainly does the trick!
• My Portugal: Recipes and Stories, by George Mendes and illustrated Romulo Yanes. Chef-restaurateur George Mendes of Aldea shares 125 recipes from Portugal, including some of the dishes that helped earn him his Michelin star. Published in 2022, this beautifully-photographed book is a lovely option for those who love fine dining and Portuguese food.
• My Portugal: Recipes and Stories, by George Mendes and Genevieve Ko. Beautiful photos and traditional recipes from the Michelin-starred chef of Aldea.
• The New Portuguese Table: Exciting Flavors from Europe’s Western Coast, by David Leite. Covering 11 different regions of Portugal, this book provides recipes and stories with simple ingredients. A modern take on traditional recipes, showcasing today’s Portugal.
• The Portuguese Travel Cookbook, by Nelson Carvalheiro. An award-winning food writer, Nelson certainly has a discerning palate. This new book, available in English and Portuguese, follows his journey of 5000km across Portugal, learning and photographing food along the way. Beautiful pictures and fun recipes.

Happy and safe eating in one of my favourite countries!

-Jodi