When I get started on herbs and spices, inevitably I end up waxing poetic about rice paddy root. It’s an herb that grows, as its name would suggest, in the flooded rice fields of Southeast Asia. It’s a marvellous thing, a sweet and lemony and peppery taste that I cannot get enough of. Pungent and foreign, I can only describe it in relation to a totally different taste: Japanese shiso leaf. Both add incredible depth to any meal, but are unlike just about any other single ingredient. They’re fun and multidimensional and plain delicious – in moderation.
I found rice paddy root in an Asian grocery store near my mum’s place last fall, did a small happy dance in the aisles and promptly gathered up several packages in my arms to bring home. She had never tried the herb before and I decided to use it in a modified version of fresh rice paper spring rolls, with grilled chicken, vermicelli, mint and Thai basil. But before I folded it into a steaming rice paper package, I gave her a piece of a leaf to try. Her face said it all: total confusion, curiosity and then “what….is that?”
Exactly.
Rice paddy root punches you in the face with its manifold tastes. I decided, you know what? I just have to see it for myself.
Next plans: Travel to Vietnam!
So, I’ve just booked a ticket to travel to Vietnam. You’ll notice on this site that there is no Vietnam archive, because I’ve never been. I meant to go in 2008, but then I fell in love with the Philippines. I meant to go in 2010 but then I got caught up photographing the Bangkok protests. It is about time I finally visit, and I’ve allocated approximately three months to my trip.
It’s wintertime in the North, damp and cool. I asked a few fellow travellers whether I ought to opt for renting a place in Saigon or Hanoi for my time in the country. Almost every Hanoi resident (the talented Lauren from Lonely Girl Travels, Mark from Sticky in Hanoi and a great cookbook author Cameron, who contributed to my food book) all said Hanoi was their preference for city feel, but that the weather was abysmal in the winter. Given how cold I am in England and how I hate the dampness of those misty days, I’m opting for Saigon.
I don’t believe I’ll do too much travelling whilst there, but who knows; the best plans tend to change at will. My basic plan, as I’m sure you have surmised, is to eat.

* * *
My 2012 was The Year of Attempting to Get Over Fears of Public Speaking. This all came about after Chris Guillebeau asked me to speak at his World Domination Summit by pretending to not ask me to speak, and next thing I knew I was sorely sleep-deprived from nerves and about to get on stage for a 30-minute talk about inspiration and travel. I decided I’d take whatever speaking gigs came my way in 2012, my way of facing my fears head-on. I’ve spoken at a total of 10 events in the last year, and I can safely say I am no less scared of speaking. HOWEVER! I am much more used to the idea of being terrified to speak in public.
Baby steps?
The most recent event was my book’s launch in the UK, which was followed by the World Travel Market, a giant travel trade show that can only be described as Epcot on steroids with a little business speed dating thrown in. It was a fun and informative week, and I spoke to tourism boards in countries I want to visit (like Georgia, Bolivia, Sri Lanka and a few others) about food history and writing about food in their respective destinations.
However, now I’ve got a roll-y suitcase full of suits and nicer clothes instead of a backpack and Southeast Asia appropriate garb. I thought that I would be returning to Montreal before heading back to Asia, so I planned it all wrong. Basically, I’ve got a thorough resource page on what to bring when you move around the globe, but I haven’t taken any of own advice. At least I have my headlamp and doorstop?
My mum has kindly mailed me my sleep sheet and my first aid kit to my brother’s place in England, and now it’s packing once more. As I’ve noted time and time again: I hate packing. Not only do I hate packing, but it seems that every time I recalibrate into some new phase of my life, I have to change it all up again. You are probably thinking, “but this is what you signed up for!” Yes, this is very true. And I truly believed that I would adjust to the ever-shifting landscape and become one of those blasé packing people. “Oh!” I would say offhandedly, “I’ll just throw shit in a suitcase and be ready to go.” I was wrong.
None of this is a big deal – I’ll find clothes that fit in Asia or do an H&M run for cotton basics and leave my suits & skirts with my brother. But it’s also good to share because these are some of the logistical issues that arise when you have no fixed abode. Packing 101 doesn’t usually include a chapter called “what to do when your belongings are scattered around the world.”

I digress.
I’ll be flying to Saigon in December, a first time travel to Vietnam where I hope to stay for a few months. I plan to get a multiple entry 3-month visa online ahead of time and then rent an apartment in Saigon, with jaunts to Bangkok or Phnom Penh to see friends. In addition to visiting a country I’ve been dreaming of seeing for a long time, I am also looking forward to some time standing still. It’s been a really wonderful year of hard work and measurable rewards (like my book!), but I’m exhausted from the moving around. I just want a routine of soup, noodles, and more rice flour funsies. I’m really excited.
Looking forward to sharing food, stories and recipes from Vietnam! More from Chefchaouen, as promised, coming up soon.
-Jodi
Ooooh! So exciting! Vietnam has been on my dream list for some time and I’ll finally be heading there next year with Intrepid Travel (exact date TBD). So I will be eagerly reading your tales!
Will hopefully post some recipes as well as stories – nom!
Don’t miss the crazy house and canyoning in Dalat. Or the night market and getting clothes made in Hoi An. Or the Phong Nha caves. Or the waterpark/gondola/roller carts in Nha Trang. Or the Pho…..everywhere! :)
Thank you David! But as I said in the post: likely just going to hunker down in Saigon. At least that’s my current plan. I need to stand still for a bit :)
Hi Jodi,
I have been following your blog for years now and I’m grateful that you’ve decided to share your travels with me. Having travelled extensively through SE Asia I have the following advice. Hoi An is an incredible town and a must see for any person visiting Vietnam. Additionally, I found myself on a motorcycle (with one of the many Easy Rider clones) biking from Hoi An to Mui Ne. This experience was the highlight of all my travels through SE Asia (and I am NOT a motorcycle person–NOT!). This said, I’m recommending that you consider contacting an Easy Rider to pick you up in Mui Ne (few hours by bus from Saigon) for a trip through the highlands ending in Hoi An. Upon arrival you can bus back to Saigon or take the bus to Hanoi for a couple days before flying back down south. Why? The Easy Riders will introduce you to the greatest that Vietnam has to offer (they know ALL the great food spots along the way–vietnamese BBQ is amazing. This trip would likely take you 3-4 days at a cost of about 50 Dollars a day (you pay for your own food/lodging). Should you have any interest let me know and I’ll hunt down the email of the Easy Rider who took me on my trip (Minh). Enjoy your trip!
Thanks Gil! Glad you had a great time. I’m going to get settled first and then figure out next plans. I’m not going to be doing too much traveling around as I’ve got a lot of work to get done, but I’m sure I’ll take trips and Hue and Hoi An were both recommended. Appreciate the offer! Thanks for reading.
I think I’m ready to head East! Latin America has been fun but I need some of these bold flavors in my mouth ASAP!
Woohoo! Reunion in Vietnam!
Vietnam is food heaven. It’s honestly one of my favorite countries for food. You’re going to love it so much.
While Saigon is great, I think the food in central and north is better and is more diverse. In Hoi An make sure you eat Cao Lau and banh bao. You won’t find it anywhere else.
Eating spring rolls from different regions of Vietnam is fun to do too. Fresh springrolls are my favorite.
I’m sure each area is different like other countries in the region. With all these food suggestions it’s going to be hard to stick to one place, but we’ll see ;) Hope you two are well!
I think you’re going to love Saigon and you can definitely find some clothes that will fit perfectly.
Thanks Rob. The benefits of being short!
Have a safe trip in Vietnam. Vietnamese food is one of my favorite foods probably because of the French influences. But Thai is my number one.
Vietnam is early on in our travel itinerary, so I’m excited to read all about it. God willing, we should be there in a year.
Wow so happy to see you are starting a new trip that for sure will take a lot of new post!
You gave me a lot of inspiration for Thailand so I’m waiting for this. :-)
Nice! We’re shortlisting a few destinations for our winter break, and Vietnam was one of them…if we end up coming I’ll ping you to see where in the world you are :)
My dad served in the Vietnam war, so I think it would be really interesting to visit. I look forward to following your time there!
I can’t wait to read about your food adventures in Vietnam, all those dishes look delicious!
You inspire me to finally get myself over to Asia and want to try them!
Soup, soup, and more soup sounds amazing. I am so jealous. Sounds LOVELY!
Can’t wait for soup updates.
wow! i hope to see you! i’m a fan! :) enjoy Vietnam Jodi!
There’s a small but resilient (thriving?) blogging community in Saigon, like The Dropout Diaries and Fly Icarus Fly
Hit us up when you get here!
I’m friends with Barbara already so I’ve no doubt I’ll find you too. ;) See you soon!
You will love Vietnam and I can totally understand you going for the food alone. Such a yummy country! Enjoy!
Perfect! I’ll be just arriving in Saigon in March. Until then I’ll be noting all of your recommendations. I agree, I am anticipating all kinds delicious cuisine
We just returned from our first visit to Vietnam and had a spectacular time! Everything about it surpassed my expectations, from the delicious freshness of the food to the friendliness of the people. We only had time to spend 5 days in HCMC – I envy your 3 months! I’m sure you’ll suss out all the best places, but we really enjoyed the restaurants Nha Hang Ngon and Hoa Tuc, and little bakery Fly Cupcake. I hope you enjoy your trip as much as we did!
Thanks for the advice!
when i heard you were pondering where to go next, i kind of wished it would be vietnam. nice to finally hear you are heading there. you’ll love it. the food is nothing short of fantastic. that photo of the bun bowl with lamb and all the little spices and nuts reminded me of my favorite stall in hanoi. dare say i love it even more than bun cha (hanoi’s specialty). can’t wait to hear about your vietnamese foodie adventures!
Heh, remember in Chiang Mai when I was all “I think I’ll be in Mexico and am going to forgo Southeast Asia for awhile?” Yeah, that. Ah well, we can all be wrong about our own plans ;) Are you planning to be in the region?
You are going to have an AMAZING TIME. I’ve only been to the north, but Vietnam has a special place in my heart. It’s beautiful and heartbreaking. Be sure to have some dill fish (Cha Ca La Vong) in Hanoi for me. <3
Thanks Grace. I remember you talking about it in Thailand too. Will find some dill fish and send photos your way :)
I LOVE Vietnamese cuisine and I’m excited for you!
You GO Girl! Get primed and watch a couple of Anthony Bourdain No Reservations episodes…it’s tops on his foodie countries…
Thanks Joan!
While I liked Vietnam enough, the food is the real reason I want to return – to eat bowls of pho on plastic stools in the early morning; for the bo bun and spring rolls, and for the surprising variety of seafood… I can’t wait to see how you enjoy Saigon! If you get a chance, try the night Vespa tours – there’s a street food one that goes pretty local, was one of the highlights of my trip there.
Thanks Edna! I’m sure I’ll have plenty of food to keep me busy, and I look forward to learning more about it as I eat.
love love Vietnamese food! I’m sure you’ll have a great time eating there ;D
Amazing! I absolutely loved Vietnam, and it was mostly because of the incredibly delicious, incredibly cheap street food. I preferred Saigon to Hanoi, and still think that it would be a fabulous place to live for a while. There’s a great expat scene, it’s close to Phu Quoc (best beaches!) and…I’m not sure how to articulate the incredible buzzing energy that surrounds the place. You’ll love it, and I can’t wait to get hungry reading all of your posts!
Have an amazing time in Vietnam. I would echo some of the other responses and while staying put sounds good, Hoi An, the crazy house in Dalat, Hanoi, Halong Bay are all amazing…..
If you do end up in Hanoi, Jon’s brother lives there so let me know if you want to look him up.
Nicola
I’m SO glad you chose Saigon over Hanoi. I loved Saigon – the colors, the whirl, the endless energy, the broad smiles, the food – but wasn’t so taken with Hanoi, which felt dark and heavy to me. You’ll love it!
What a great choice especially since it’ll be ‘dry’ season. Even though Q & I were born in California. We still call Vietnam the motherland. Our parents were from the south and I can tell you from our perspective… We enjoy the food in the south more than the north.
I think Sherry Otts was living out in Saigon for awhile, so she might offer some good pointers. I love Saigon more each time I come back. Enjoy!
Thanks Gerard! And congrats on your engagement – loved the photos. I’ve chatted with Sherry about it prior (was thinking of going a few years ago but got caught up in other meals and places). Really looking forward to exploring.
I can’t wait to read about all of the delicious food you are going to eat there… I’ve never been but you’ll have lots of pho I imagine! Have an amazing trip.
I may be there around the same time! If so we should meet up and I can show you that I do, indeed, have that spiffy whistle you gave me at TBEX attached to my backpack!
Love it! Have mine with me too, of course. I’d love to meet up again, and it will be nice to do so outside the chaos of a conference. Looking forward to it.
“HOWEVER! I am much more used to the idea of being terrified to speak in public.”Jodi.
Bingo! Embrace the fear then it becomes excitement. a positive not a negative. Learned through doing just like you are. But I think your character comes through in your writing. I suspect you’re just as genuine at the lectern. Nothing more appealing to an audience IMHO.
I plan on doing Vietnam too. Nomadic adventure about 3 years out now. I currently am working with combat veterans of “The American War” so I’m sure it will be bittersweet. Safe travels to you.
Thanks Randy! Safe travels to you too. Have you read A Dragon Apparent?
I have not read “A Dragon Apparent”. Thanks for the heads up. Reading reviews it seems to echo my “bittersweet” sentiment above. I suppose every spot on the planet has a history of triumph and tragedy, Southeast Asia just happens to be prominent in my experience. Sure wish folks would spend more time eating with one another than killing each other. Thanks to folks like you maybe we’re getting a little closer. Peace.
I severely miss the gigantic bowls of pho for $1 (that was 2008)…I truthfully didn’t even know what pho was prior to going there – now it’s my 2nd favorite food in the world behind Thai.
You can look forward to many more toddler sized plastic chairs and tables :) Can’t wait to read all about it! Bon voyage!
Wah! Have an amazing trip! Vietnam is AWESOME!
I visited Vietnam back in 1996. At the time I remember thinking that Vietnam had more shades of green than any other country I have ever visited and I have visited a few. The food is fabulous but the people even more so. Do be sure to visit the North if you can as well as Dalat for a change of pace. They are such a huge part of Vietnam. You won’t regret it. Looking forward to following your stories. Have fun!
Oh I LOVE Vietnam, and Saigon is a great city. I’m sure you probably know this (or her), but you should try to hook up with Barbara from The Dropout Diaries – she lives there and runs food tours in Saigon! I’ve never met either of you, and yet I think you’d hit it off! Have fun
Thanks Katie! I know Barbara from Chiang Mai and we’re already in touch but I appreciate you connecting us – always fun to introduce people with like minds!
Looking forward to catching up in HCMC! One of my favorite places in the world. I just got your book pumped to read it! :D
Huzzah! Didn’t realize you’d be in HCMC too. Looking forward to hangsies and hope you like the book.
As James@Fly, Icarus… says – yes, yes, we’ve got a disparate band of bloggers here in Saigon (best described as “An Asian NYC on Steroids”), though I’ve recently turned renegade and now call dear, wondrous (you really MUST come up here to the coooool, green mountains) Dalat, “home”.
I’ve lived here in Vietnam more than a year now, and have but barely scratched the surface. The food of course, but more so the Vietnamese people – are just the BEST! Don’t come looking for Thailand though – Vietnam is completely different, and you’re in for a most uniquely authentic treat.
Thanks lady! Looking forward to seeing the country and hope to meet up whilst I’m there. I’m not looking for Thailand of course – if were, I’d go there! But I’m excited for soup, herbs and spices and some great exploration. Dalat’s on my list too. Hope to meet you soon.
The reason I mentioned “Don’t come looking…” is ‘cuz it seems to me that folks that come here either love Vietnam or end up hating it (well leastwise disappointed), and I believe it’s ‘cuz the latter come here expecting “The Land of Smiles” and that makes me sad.
The Vietnamese people are absolutely WONDERFUL! But… they’re not all smiley like the Thais (speaking of course in gross generalities about both cultures).
Hard to explain, but imho the Vietnamese people as a whole are very kind, hard working and especially fun-loving, but… when it comes to foreigners/tourists, they often seem a bit rude as they don’t fawn over them and (leastwise initially) often won’t even respond at all when you try to speak Vietnamese.
Personally, I admire and respect this trait about them, but YMMV, so just a little heads-up.
Not a bad place to spend the winter. I am sure you will get your fill of good food as well. With your love of SE Asia, should be a fun winter for you! Have fun shopping for some clothes as well :)
Happy travels and happy eating. Vietnam is on my 2013 agenda and I cannot ruddy wait.
Have a great time…enjoy the pho!
Okay, I know you were pretty clear here that you want to stay put, but I just couldn’t live with myself if I didn’t recommend visiting Mui Ne. It’s only a few hours away from Saigon, perfect for a weekend getaway, and it was my favorite spot in Vietnam. I could have spent weeks just sitting on the beach watching the kitesurfers, but there was so much to do and see — the sand dunes, a beautiful spring, and a mountain buddha an hour’s motorcycle drive away. I highly recommend it if you need a getaway from the city.
Haha, you are one of many and I’m sure I’ll make it there, esp as it’s close. Thank you for the advice!
Hi Jodi,
I’ve been in Hanoi in January and did not find it unpleasant, but I’m comparing to Vermont. I hope you’ll get there as long as you are in the country. I’d go back in a heartbeat: wonderful food, walkable city. May you have an excellent visit to Saigon.
Ann
Sure you’ll have a wonderful time. If you could find out the secret of making a fish pho I’d be grateful! (i’ve become seriously obsessed since watching Rick Stein’s Far Eastern Odyssey) but all recipes use chicken/beef stock. Sure i will do with fish stock but any secret ingredients you find out do share!
Hi Lynda! I found this one with vegetable stock – – perhaps it’ll work? Let me now :)
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Hi Jodi,
My daughter and I spent a month in Saigon earlier this year and I loved the food. We stayed in District 1 my favorite local place with a little of everything is Ngon. We also did a weekend bus trip to Phnom Penh and when you’re there, go check out the most adorable cupcakes at bloom (an NGO that trained previously trafficked women) and you must try Fish Amok. I’ve written about them on my blog if you’re interested. Happy Travels!
Food photos oh my goodness looks so delish! that is all :)
Your talk at WDS was sooooooooooooooo good, I never would have known you were afraid of public speaking. You speak in such a conversational tone!
We have been in Vietnam for the last two weeks and absolutely love it! Especially the food, oh the food — an incredible improvement after being in China and eating Chinese food for 2 months. We are heading to Saigon in a week and will be there for a few days and would love to meet up over a meal if you’re free!
Vietnam is definitely on my list and I wish I could spend longer than the 3-months there but it doesn’t seem that easy to do. Still it’s a nice block of time and your plans sound awesome.