A huge part of my excitement over visiting Northern India was, of course, the food. Everyone I knew ranted and raved about dishes throughout the country, their eyes glazing over and slightly losing focus, minds reeling with memories of tastes and smells. From those who had visited Rajasthan, tales of vegetables coated in spices and crunchy street snacks grabbed wherever possible flowed freely. I imagined tiny corner stalls piled high with treats, fried on-the go. I wasn’t wrong. But as a celiac in Northern India, what could I eat?
Delhi snack stall, in all its crunchy glory.
Notwithstanding the fact that many Indian meals do have rice, Northern India’s tastes often skew toward wheat — more than I realized. While Punjab is referred to as the “breadbasket” of the country, during our time in Rajasthan we were showered with wheat add-ons to our meals, local breads such as chapatis and rotis for all. Well, except me.
Our guide Manu would wrinkle his nose at the rice offerings, explaining he was from Rajasthan where wheat is the chosen carb for his family. “You and your rice,” he would tease, shaking his head. Of course, this just meant that I offered him rice at every opportunity I could, purely to annoy him. But with Manu’s guidance and a lot of exploring, I was also able to find all sorts of other non-rice carbohydrates to keep me entertained.
I should note that I am extremely sensitive and that I have celiac disease, not a milder intolerance. Eating foods fried in oil that has been contaminated with breaded products will get me sick; anything with even a little soy sauce will do the same. And so on. I mention this in the event celiacs stumble on the site, to make clear that with heightened sensitivity in mind, I have compiled the following list.
Gluten Free Diet in Northern India: What to Eat
Note that cross-contamination is a real concern and it is important to ask and understand whether or not the same oil is used to fry unsafe foods, like samosas.
1. Poha
With breakfast included in our guesthouses, many catered to Western tastes, and the staff seemed confused about my refusal of the breads they had on offer. I learned quickly that a fast and easy alternative was poha, a dish made from flattened rice that is fried with turmeric, chili powder, onions, mustard seeds and more. Easy to make and satisfying, it goes quite well with eggs.
Recipe and photo from the Times of India here.
2. Bajra Roti or Makki ki Roti
While traditional roti is made with wheat, we saw millet growing along the long drives in Rajasthan, a staple food I tend to forget about when I am home. Pre-made bajra (the word for millet) rotis are not advised as often wheat is mixed in the batter. However, many guesthouses and restaurants were more than happy to make a pure bajra roti, which I was then able to use to soak up my sauce from dinner. The breads are a dense and slightly difficult to digest alternative to the lighter wheat version, but went quite well with the more sauce-based curries and stews.
Here is a palak paneeer, a spinach and soft cheese dish famous in Rajasthan, with this celiac-friendly bread.
In addition to millet, some Punjabi restaurants and the occasional street vendor will also make makki ki roti, corn-based bread that is also gluten-free. NOTE: Occasionally vendors will dust the finished product with wheat flour — or so I was warned. That said, I never found any that did, and I did not get sick.
3. Dosa, Beloved Dosa (Also Found in N India)
Yes, dosas are customarily associated with South India. They are slim spongey ‘crepes’ made from lentil and rice batter and spread thin like a pancake and grilled, either with filling or without. For those concerned about eating street food and getting sick, the chutneys that accompany these dosa on the street ought to be avoided as many are uncooked sauces. The dosa itself, however, makes for a great meal. Despite traveling in the North, there were often South Indian restaurants in town for a sampling. In addition, in the markets of Jaipur and Jodphur and in Bikaner I found small dosa stalls on the street, making a potato-masala filled masterpiece for only 50 cents.
Note that one type of dosa, rava dosa, is made with wheat flour included in the batter and must be avoided for celiacs. For plain dosa recipe, with step-by-step instructions, see here.
4. Papadum
These crispy lentil or black gram crackers taste great when dipped in tamarind or mint and cilantro chutneys, and have long been a staple in my kitchen, no matter where I am in the world.
In Northern India they were found at the occasional breakfast table, but usually accompanying a curry or sauce-based meal or atop a plate of thali (see below). Gluten-free, they are the perfect opposite to a fiery main dish, crunchy mixed with soft and savory. As I note below, where meals come with a chapati or roti included, it was never an issue to substitute a papadum instead.
It’s important to ask whether these are made with asafoetida – see below for more about that, and why it’s off limits for celiacs. Be sure to ask if the papadums were made with asafoetida before you consume!
Extra papadums for meeeee!
5. Pakora (And Other Chickpea Flour Snacks)
While many of the street snacks were off limits, pakora were found in most of Rajasthan, and were occasionally the only available item on the menu that was, as the group started calling it, “Jodi-friendly.” Made by taking vegetables or paneer and coating them in spice-filled chickpea (gram) flour and then deep-frying, they were cheap and abundant. While not the healthiest (nothing deep-fried is), they were nonetheless an easy alternative when we stopped for a snack, or in-between main meals.
Pakoras or other chickpea snacks (like the fried dal balls below) were primarily found on the appetizer list at restaurants or at chaat (savory snack) vendors on the street.
As always, it is important to ask about cross-contamination! The good thing about street stalls is that they often serve one or two foods, and thus it’s a higher chance of uncontaminated, wheat-y oil.
Dal motth from a vendor in Delhi, chickpea fritters with jeera (cumin) and served with a mint and cilantro chutney.
6. Thalis
Vegetarian thalis were a great option too, a metal tray filled with small metal cups and containing a vegetable dish, yoghurt curd, dal (lentils), rice and pickled vegetables. Depending on the style of thali (Bengali versus Punjabi versus Rajasthani and so many more) your options will vary, but overall a very safe choice for my stomach. Keep in mind, too, that even if the dish comes with chapati or roti, you can almost always ask for extra rice or a papadum instead.
Thali of champions in Udaipur, at the vegetarian restaurant just across from the main temple in the centre of town. Note: celiacs cannot eat the dessert ball, a sweetened wheat-based treat.
7. Lassi
Lassi, a delicious yoghurt drink served savory or sweet, was highly recommended by friends who had travelled to India as both a refreshing snack and a way to ensure my intestines stayed full of the right bacteria. From the cardamom and lemon version I tried in Jodphur (THE BESTEST) to the saffron and almond iteration on the streets of Old Delhi, lassis are everywhere.
Note: Beware those stalls that use tapwater to water down their lassis. With the exception of one restaurant in Jaipur, I never had any lassi issues and almost all the lassis were thick and creamy, not watered down.
8. Bhujia
I devoted a full section of my Northern India overview post to bhujia, and with good reason. This spiced chickpea flour snack made famous in the city of Bikaner was both addictive and filling, and kept my hunger at bay between meals. While I always asked if it was 100% chickpea (gram) flour, the answer never wavered. Pre-packaged bhujia is also available throughout the region in foil bags, and it too was wheat-free. As always, be sure to verify!
9. Biryanis and Pulaos
Not limited to India, biryanis are found and consumed in many different countries, a fragrant, sautéed spiced rice with a recipe that differs depending on location. While pulao is also made from spiced rice and meat or vegetables, there is a difference between the two. Paraphrasing from a chef I met in India, generally biryani contains much more spices and involves boiling the rice separately and then layering the meat and vegetables and cooking it together once again. In contrast, pulao is made with less spices and meat but the rice is added uncooked, a milder version than in biryani. In addition, pulaos are usually wetter as excess liquid after cooking is not drained.
Regardless, both were available throughout Northern India at almost every restaurant, and though I prefer the spices of a biryani, a vegetable and egg pulao became a comfort food during my weeks in the region.
10. Dal
Dal, filling saucy lentil, are manifold in India and there are far too many dal dishes to try to list here. Readers have asked if dal means one dish – but it doesn’t. Many many dals for the tasting!
Suffice it to say that my favourite afternoon snack was dal tadka, yellow lentils with spices, and jeera rice, which is rice spiced with dry cumin seeds. Simple and delicious. Other tempting dal options include dal makhani, made with black lentils instead of the lighter yellow version.
No matter the menu, dal was a go-to saviour. When we stopped in at a midday truck stop and only wheat options were listed, I simply asked for dal and rice and was rewarded with a flavourful and cheap snack. I saved this for last because it is so ubiquitous that even when not seemingly on offer, you can usually get a plate. In a pinch, it kept me full, gave me protein and was also so much more tasty than I expected.
The Rest: Curries, Veggies, and More
Despite being quite wheat-heavy as a region, Rajasathani curries never had wheat in them to thicken the sauces — at least during my visit. Chickpea flour was used instead. I asked often, and the reaction was one of confusion — why would we do that?
From paneer (soft cheese) cooked in spinach or smoked in a tandoor, to grilled meats or vegetables, to chicken curries, all were available with rice and none got me sick. Sides to meals included grilled okra with cumin or potatoes with spices, with none of the vegetables ever causing an issue.
Another go-to was the halal grilled meat spots I found, which had chicken on the fire, roasted after being marinated in a variety of sauces. From the green mint and chili chicken to masala spiced wings, none had any wheat in their marinades, and we were sure to ask repeatedly.
Grilled meat from a halal take-away stall in Jaipur, near the main mosque.
And, let us not forget chai tea, available on the side of the road in tiny clay or plastic cups, boiled fresh with spices and thick milk. I couldn’t smell it being made without clamouring for a cup, drifting over to whoever was crouched over a tiny stove, bubbling tea in front of him.
There is magic happening here. Chai in Chandelao, Rajasthan.
What to Avoid: Unsafe Foods for Celiacs in Northern India
Despite the large variety of snacks and dishes to choose from, the regions snack foods are predominantly wheat-based. Below is a list of foods that ought to be avoided for those with celiac disease, even though they look absolutely delicious.
Breads: rotis, chappatis, naan, parathas, puris are all off limits. Pani puri, a tamarind water served in a thin, curved wheat puff, is everywhere on the streets and was hard to resist — but I did.
DO NOT EAT, PEOPLE! (Even though it looks delicious)
Hing, or asafoetida: hing, known in the west as asafoetida, is a strong spice extracted from an herb called ferula, which is in the same family as celery. The asafoetida is made from the gum of the herb, and has a very pungent smell. Unfortunately, most of it in India is also ‘cut’ with wheat. A friend in Delhi who has no gluten issues was shocked to discover his asafoetida was 55% wheat! Used as intended, a pinch of this spice is a good substitute for garlic, but due to its usual combo with wheat flour, asking about the type of hing used and the nature of the ingredients in your dishes is very important in India. Always helpful to ask if there is hing in the chutneys, pakora, papadums, curries, or soups.
Samosas: Found throughout the day on the streets and in restaurants, with wheat flour triangle dumpling hosting a filling of either paneer or vegetarian (potatoes and peas and spices).
Pav Bhaji: The bhaji part of this fast food dish — a spicy tomato and vegetable stew — is safe, but it is served with pav, a white flour bread resembling a hamburger bun that is used to sop up the stew. Solution for me was to just ask for the bhaji, to the confusion of the street vendors.
Kachori: A crispy fried snack filled with mung beans, the outside of kachori is wheat based and must be avoided.
Dal Baati Churma: A popular snack made from lentils, a baked wheat ball and a sweet powdered cereal, this is off limits but available in many Rajasthani cities, most notably Jaipur.
Jalebi and Imarti: Round, bright orange desserts made with fried dough, both are off limits (though they looked so good). For desserts, I mostly ate fresh fruit or more lassi.
NO IMARTI FOR YOU!
Resources & Further Reading for Gluten-Free Travellers in India
Updated: JULY 2020
- Celiac Disease India, which proclaims “Life can be as enjoyable without gluten”.
- Celiac Society of India, the overarching association in the country.
- The Celiac Society of Rajasthan, including their Gluten Free Restaurant Card for Rajasthan (note: no mention of cross contamination).
- Gluten Free Travel India.
- An article about the “impeding epidemic” of celiac disease in India and another from the Times of India called “Gluten Free Not Celiac Friendly“.
- Indian Express’ post about what Indians need to know about going gluten free in the country, including to “use gluten-free substitutes in place of gluten-containing foods. One can replace chappati bread to ragi or nachni chapati, nachni bread. Soya flour can also be used instead of wheat puff. Remember lots of foods are naturally gluten-free such as vegetables, meat, poultry, quinoa, fish cheese and eggs so use these as the basis to your meals.”
- For those in Delhi, there is now a gluten-free cafe in town, making pizza, breads and other treats.
- General reference for non-wheat flours, with photos.
- Where to buy gluten free Italian products in India, from Jeeva Bakes
- If you’re heading to South India, here is a gluten free guide (with some restaurant suggestions)
- Gluten Free Living India’s list of safe/unsafe items
This is but a short overview (yes, I know — short for me means over 2000 words), listing some of the foods that made India’s wheat basin feel comforting to a celiac like me.
While I did some research prior to leaving and asked many questions while on the road, I welcome additional thoughts or suggestions and can update the post accordingly. With only a few weeks there, I have no doubt I’ve missed some other options.
And finally: here is a “know before you go” piece from Roads and Kingdoms, helpful for a trip to Delhi.
-Jodi
This post is making me drool…
What amazing food. Our friend lives in India and says he gets ill all the time from the food but that he’s got used to it.
Thanks for a great informative blog (yet again)
:-)
brilliant post! can’t wait for you to visit the south!
Wow…what a wealth of information. Very informative, thank you for posting. I can’t imagine how much time you spent reading up beforehand and taking notes while there. I’m headed that way myself in a few weeks and am looking forward to sampling some of the cuisine you mention. I’ll be revisiting this post again, thats for sure!
Hey , Great Post !! i have been following all your posts on India. its amusing to see your excitement for the things i have gotten so used to…. makes one think about slowing down once in a while to smell the jalebis and the kachori’s.
one thing though , those are not ‘Jalebi’ in that Pic , the you posted is actually of an ‘Imarti’, its prepared from frying a dough prepared from ground lentils, usually served hot with cold ‘Rabri’ (a sweet prepared from condensed milk).
Looking forward to your future posts. :)
Hi Snehil, thanks for the note. Made the change to both jalebi and imarti, though with this photo particularly we asked what the flour was and they said wheat, not lentils. All of the annatto-died treats (jalebi and imarti) were wheat when I asked, but perhaps some are safe — good to know!
Great perspective, if there’s an upside you get to try these foods in a different ways (like the rotis) and places are becoming more and more accomodating to people with celiac.
The dishes looking amazing though. Indian cuisine is my fav after Thai. Lebanese is a close third.
after a year in india, i finally had my first dosi at a south indian restaurant in bangalore. i ordered a plain one which was fantastic with some dipping sauce!
Thanks for this post, Jodi. I’m sending the link to my friend who also has Celiac’s and is a fellow traveler. Your food posts rock and the photos make me hungry…
You should, of course, try to visit south india. As far as I can tell, Tamil Nadu eats nothing BUT rice (seriously, I’ve never eaten that much rice in my life).
I will get there, no doubt! This was a trip for my mum and her birthday wish, which was to see the Taj. :)
THANK YOU!! THANK YOU!!
This is wonderful! Such a detailed guide. I do not have celiac’s disease, but I do have family members who do not eat gluten due to ADHD. This will be helpful for them on their travels. Thank you!
Thank you so much for this in-depth research—and all of the graphic photos! Everything looks delicious. As a celiac, it’s always daunting to travel to a new place, but information like this makes traveling so much easier and more fun. I’m hoping to travel to India next year, so I’ll definitely be referencing this!
Glad to hear Anna! Wanted to provide a thorough overview in one place. Will be doing the same for Vietnam as well, though happily much of the food is gluten-free here!
Really excited you’re doing the same for Vietnam. This makes me think I actually could go to these places! It’s always my first thought and hesitation when my husband and I dream of travels.
Hi Jodi,
Great post! Even though I am familiar with all of the foods and do not have Celiac’s disease… It was still fun to read. It’ll be such a helpful resource for so many. I didn’t think pani puri would be off limits, since there is a version made with semolina (and another version made with wheat flour), but I guess they probably mix some all-purpose flour in the dough. You must try out some Indian sweets while you are there, even though jalebis and gulab jamuns are off limits. Do try rasgullas, rasmalai, sandesh, etc.
It’s posts like these that make me want to head over to the Indian restaurant tomorrow. I think their food is almost as much of a draw as the Taj Mahal. Mmmm paneer.
Hi,
I work with a travel company in India and your article is really informative – especially since celiac disease is not known in India at all.
But I would really not suggest Lassi to first-timers in India. The general rule we follow regarding liquid-based-foods is to suggest all liquids where the water has been boiled with chai being a good example. But we would not suggest juices or lassi as you are not sure about the water used. Yoghurt is strongly recommended though – especially since it neutralises the reaction to spice.
Hope this helps.
Cheers.
Thanks Anindya. Friends who had travelled in India said lassis were highly recommended and that they were never an issue as they were widely consumed within the country. As I noted, it is best to make sure they are not watery but as I said we did not get sick (and boy did we eat a lot of lassi). I understand the caution but advice from others was contrary. Of course, if you are truly wanting to be conservative, any street food might want to be avoided. (I didn’t want to be so conservative though ;) )
WOW! On the behalf of Gluten Free girls everywhere…THANK YOU
Hi Jodi,
thank you a lot for the post!!! Although I am “just” vegetarian, I really appreciate this precious deep overview and am looking forward to try it by my own :)
Thank you Ivana! Hoping to do future posts in the same style. Since I eat this way anyhow, it is great to hopefully help others in their research. Safe travels!
Looking forward to other updates, Jodi :) Thanks and good luck with food walks ;) Lovely idea!
I love Indian food, especially the different tastes of spices. But I only tried them in China. Hope I will step my foot on India like you to taste the real Indian food. Thanks very much for your food tips.
I haven’t been to Northern India but am currently in Nepal (close enough?) and have had some of the best Indian food of my life here. I’m very sad you can’t have naan – if you can invent a gluten-free version that tastes the same you’ll be a gazillionaire!
Love your food photography! That Imari looks delicious!
Wonderful blog! I’m so glad people are talking about allergy to gluten. I have this allergy since I was a baby and even now still find it difficult to find a nice meal in restaurants for me. I love Indian food and definitely want to go there one day so thank you for your blog, it all looks very tasty. :)
I am an Indian and have enjoyed all of the food items which you have mentioned in article above. Lassi is my favorite drink. I love your post. It was really a mouthwatering experience.
The food all looks amazing. I have a gluten intolerance which is far from Celiac. But I take it super seriously as I believe an intolerance is a strong indicator and warning sign and if you keep eating the food, the consequences and harm done to the body can be dire.
Traveling can be tricky (obviously). It’s great to see how you adjust and still enjoyed certain foods.
Haven’t made it to India…yet but I will definitely be coming back to this post when I do. Thank you.
Awesome post and the list. looking forward for your article on south india..
this is an amazing post! thank you so much for all the info…however latest updates from India..I believe most restaurants are mixing wheat flour in their dosa batter and very few will make it gluten free for you, the sambhar may also contain sambhar powder which may contain gluten, hence I’m off roadside dosas and I live in South India. Also shops are mixing wheat/maida with paneer and recently I ate some fresh paneer and was ill all over again. I even check with the manufacturer and they deny doing this. The proof of the pudding as they say
Thank you Amrita! I’ll look into these as well :(
Hi Amrita,
I am Indian living in the States and my child has Celiac. I’d love to talk to you about whether you have found problems with cross contamination in India from urad dal or channa dal or poha. We are trying to find a safe source that is certified as my daughter is very sensitive, but no luck so far. Gluten keeps creeping into her diet. I can be reached at shabnam dot merchant at gmail dot com. Would appreciate your insight! Thanks
While this all sounds very nice, the reality is that you need to be extremely careful in India of cross contamination. The papadams more often than not have hing/wheat in them. The besan (used for pakoras) bhajra/jawar four (used for bhakra rotis) and dosa rice flour (which is often used) might very well have been ground in a mill that also grinds wheat. The biryani and dals will more often than not contain hing which has wheat. Food is made by hand, making cross contamination highly likely in restaurants that serve thalis. We found out all this when we took our 5 year old daughter to India this past year to visit her grandmother and aunts. In spite of the knowledge we had, and despite our best efforts, her autoimmune (TTG-IGA) count went up during that trip – and we thought we were very very very careful – we barely ever ate out, and when we did we thought it was safe, and gave her very limited items. The items you have listed are fine if you are avoiding gluten, but not fine for someone with celiac disease.
Hi Shabnam, I was diagnosed with celiac disease years ago, so I am writing from my own position as someone quite sensitive to cross-contamination. I am sorry your daughter did not fare as well as I did, but did want to note that I write from a position of celiac, not one of intolerance. I hope you find ways to make your daughter’s trips safer. Best of luck!
Jodi,
Most people with celiac cannot eat foods that are fried in oil that has had wheat products in it, or flours made from gluten free grains that were ground in mills that also ground wheat. That is what cross contamination is about, and food in India is strife with it. My mother and sisters live there – we have done the research. For example, we asked our favorite bhujia/pakora stand where they got their besan/chickpea flour ground – and we went to that place and learned they also grind wheat in that mill. What I’m trying to say things are no different there than here – but in fact worse, as there is less awareness about cross contamination. A person with celiac cannot tolerate more than 20ppm wheat – hence the new FDA laws were put into place in the USA last month on gluten free packaged food. But eating out is still dangerous here and there – if you have celiac disease, i.e., as opposed to gluten intolerance. Have you checked your TTG levels since eating out in India? That is the only way to know…
The safest things to eat in India are vegetables and fish/meat and whole gf grains – and even then – you have to make sure the dishes are clean and that the cook washes their hands after handling chapatis and the like. It gets dangerous as soon as you start eating any flour products, due to cross contamination.
I grew up in India eating and loving street food – and I still love eating out in India when I’m visiting my mother there. And sadly – I cannot share that experience with my little girl. It makes me very sad, but it’s the reality I have to face, after her TTG levels went up after our last visit there despite our extreme caution. Instead, we make the pakoras and dosas and biryanis at home, and grind the flours and spices ourselves.
I don’t understand how you get past the cross contamination in India, but I’m writing this to warn others of our experience. BTW, most papadam, which you recommend, has hing in it. It helps with digestion. (and hing, as you know, is more often than not, cut with wheat).
I think you just saved my life! I am sure I am doomed when I plan my upcoming India trip, as I browse the net, I stumble upon this article.
Ubud is haven for celiac people, but going for one month to India with their bread et all… am sure am doomed! thank you for sharing…
xx
Glad it was helpful. Safe travels!
Aa with any trip, please ask your local Indian friends to recommend some dishes. If you are a vegan, happiness will be found in South India :-). You can ask them to hold the ghee. Best wishes.
Great website. Off to read the Saigon Street Foods. As a vegetarian I am quite worried about evening thinking of those places for a visit.
Great post!Planning a trip to India with my friends, I’m a veggie and one of them is a celiac so it’s good to know our options. Keep up the good work!
Thank you so very much for this write up. I will be spending several weeks in India working, and this is a wonderful resource!
This is a great post. I went to India thinking I could get away with asking people what had flour in it but nobody seemed to know. India is such an honest place; everyone is so lovely and agreeable, but that makes it tough to confirm that they have understood you.
It wasn’t a big deal in the south where everything is rice-based, but as we drove north, well… Lots of hard-boiled eggs for me. Breakfast, lunch and dinner. I could have put this post to such good use.
Hi! Great write up. I realised i was NCGS (non- celiac gluten sensitive) after a lot of tests that led to nothing. So i did the Gluten challenge, and voila! I live in india, needless to say some thought i wasjoining a fad. I frankly felt embarrassed to ask hosts if something had wheat in it, but thanks to my wife’s who questioned incessantly we found some things quite shocking, and everyone should know.
A very popular indian breakfast is Upma. Most waiting staff will tell you there is no wheat, just ‘rava’, but that is Semolina- a no-no. Idli and Medu wada are south- india dishes served alongside to Dosa. Served with boiling hot sambhar- it is your safest bet for a good vegetarian meal. Idli is the lowest caloried meal as it is steamed. If at a restaurant, the chutneys should be fine.
What you missed out in the north was probably the Dahi Wada. A fried ball of Lentis like Urad dal, is put into water to drain out the oil, then put into whisked yougurt/ curd which is garnished with sweet red chillies & cumin. This is a full meal with protein and carbs, and can also cut the spiciness of the other dishes. It is delicious and cheap.
Coming to Lassi (sweet) and ‘Chaas’ (salted and spiced) are your nutritional backup. Great news for traveller’s is you don’t have to risk street- side quality as you get very good pre- packaged and pasturised versions in tetrapaks. You can carry a batch with you and refrigerate a piece or two in the hotel refrigerator. Companies like Amul, Danon, Nestle, and some niche players are all getting on the bandwagon.
Also, some places in india make Jowar rotis (sorghum). They are served with gravy or moist dishes like ‘Baingan Bharta’ (roasted Brinjals mashed and cooked with onions and spices.) These rotis go very well with Non-vegetarian gravies also. It is more palatable, and a tastes a lot less earthy compared to the Bajra (millet) rotis.
If you are in western india (Bombay, etc.) go nuts on the Batata Wada. Its a ball of spiced potato dipped in chick pea batter and fried- served with dry chillies! (Goes great with ketchup) If fresh most certainly safe to eat. But now the trend is to serve it in a Bun like a burger. And they reheat both on the same pan. But this is also the case of the Pav Bhaji- so ask them to just serve the Wada not the ‘Pav’. (If i tell you the origin of Pav, even Non celiacs will stop eating the indian ‘Burger’ bun served on the streets! )
All travelers can carry bananas- is a definite life saver esp. on trains and buses. Also drink lots of coconut water – even safer than some of the suspect locally bottled water.
Sorry for the long post and spelling errors- its just that i am finally travelling again after going gluten free. I used to always be worried about not finding a clean loo (biggest issue in India)! Now i’m at least confident of finding my food.
Cheers!
I am traveling to India soon. I am wondering what foods to eat on the airplane. Would like more than snacks on such a long flight. Do you have any suggestions?
I didn’t bring any snacks as was given a Gluten-free meal and for the internal flights the Indian dishes were rice-based, but I do usually carry muesli bars and some roasted almonds as “just in case” stashes :) Enjoy India!
I’m not sure what kind of celiacs you guys have, it can’t be that severe. For those at the 20 parts per million limit, indian food and chinese food are all off limits. They are almost never free from gluten. I spend a lot of time in asia, and I can tell you there’s no way to avoid gluten in the local food. Indian spices are ground in the same machines that grind wheat products, and aren’t cleaned between uses. Also they thin or improve the flow of spices by deliberately adding wheat. Chinese food is even worse; the label on the package is seldom accurate and nearly all meat is soaked in a sauce of some kind, containing gluten. Local customs make it rude to inquire about the contents of food, and if you ask they’ll feel justified to treat you like an unruly drunkard and tell you whatever you want to hear.
Hi Daniel, I was diagnosed years ago and have been travelling (as you know since you’re here) for the last 7 years. I don’t see the need to claim my ‘version’ of celiac is not severe — you have it or you don’t, with varying degrees of sensitivity. For me, frying in the same oil as breaded items will be sufficient to get me sick. Am I going to stay home as a result? Hell no.
I agree that there is no way to completely avoid gluten, but my goal is to try and give a guide as to what is your best shot at doing so. For Japan, for example, the only onigiri I could eat was the salmon one, because the rest had the kanji for wheat in the ingredients of the sauces. As you can see on the site I haven’t been back to China — that’s because avoiding gluten there is close to impossible. That said, I will be in Shanghai likely in late 2015 and am curious how I can get by.
I don’t agree that it’s rude to inquire if you have a translation card that is both apologetic and explanatory. But yes, it’s certainly not a guarantee to avoid ingredients that get you sick. For what it’s worth, I’ve been more sick in Western countries where items are labelled gluten free but contaminated during cooking than in Northern India. Other than that dodgy lassi — which of course has nothing to do with gluten ;)
Hi Jodi
I am from India (New Delhi) .Came across your blog while surfing …its a lovely post . I am sure it can help a lot of travellers.
I will just like to drop in a caution….while in north india of India you should be cautious when you are consuming flours like that of chickpeas, bajra etc as these flours are mostly grounded in the same mills that grind wheat so the chances of contamination are very high
Same holds true when you are eating fried stuff like pakoras as they might be fried in the same oil in which other gluten ladden things like samosas etc are fried
Hey Jodi! Once again a BIG thank U for a detailed list on what and what not to eat. Yes, I do agree that there are some snacks that can be truly avoided for their intolerance and ZERO nutritional value. But, I felt painful when I read that one should avoid Indian breads. Infact, they are high in nutrition.
I’m very happy I found your site. I have an allergy to wheat so I also have to eat gluten free when traveling which has made it a bit to travel. It’s so inspiring to know that you don’t let food limitations stop you, even as far as India.
Thank you Stephanie! Feel free to write with any questions you might have.
There’s a new pizza place in Delhi that does gluten-free pizzas. Everything is hand-made and organic and they can work around other food allergies, too. And it’s really good pizza! http://www.annaperennapizza.com
Excellent, thank you so much for sharing.
I have just discovered I have a gluten intolerance….a big thank you for your excellent blog. I love Indian food. Great to know there are breads that are gluten free…now to find then in Melbourne. I loved the blog with it’s beautiful photos and comprehensive information.
Thanks Jan! I hope your diagnosis isn’t too disruptive but there are lots of great options out there especially in Melbourne. The celiac association of Australia ought to have some suggestions for you too! Be well and thank you for reading.
Hi . I have celiac and live in Mumbai. It can be nightmarish to eat out , as many restaurants aren’t aware of where gluten can hide. Like pappadams. Most commercial North Indian papad has asafoetida ( hing) added to it. Gluten free Hing is available ( I buy online from Amazon)but is not the one that’s commonly used. Hing is sold as a powder/blocks compounded with wheat.
Hi Jodi, first of all i would like to applaud your effort for exploring so many food varieties in India and writing so highly about Indian food. Dal with rice or at times roti is more of a staple food in North India and yes even we prefer dal and rice most of times while travelling in India. Its a risk free diet.
One more gluten free delicacy is the MOMO. Its a rice dough dumpling (steamed or fried) with veg or non veg stuffing inside. Its more of north eastern food, probably from nepal and too delicious.You can find it in chinese/tibetian titled restaurants in Delhi. Give it a try next time !!
Hi Sumil, Momo are most definitely NOT gluten-free :) They are made with maida (wheat) flour, occasionally mixed with rice but I’ve never seen pure rice dumplings. Maida is sadly wheat :(
Hi Sumil… This is such a nice write-up. Thanks for all the information. This is really helpful. Just wanted to mention here that momos are made from APF. The ones made of rice flour are called modaks in western state of Maharashtra and made in southern India also named differently but tastes similar. So yes modaks are gluten-free. Keep writing. All the best.
Hello jodi,
I love Indian food :-) its delicious and yet so spicy but still very exotic. one should visit here and you definitely love the food of India.Nice post and thanks for sharing:-).
Jodi thank you for this. It will be helpful here at home and even more so when I get to India this spring. I only wish there was any easy way to take it with me! I will have to produce my own handy guide, so I can check as I go. Will this hold true for me in the south as well? Anything special I should know about Kerala foods?
Carol, Kerala is the rice basket of India. So you are pretty safe there. Dosa, Idli, Appams, Puttu are common breakfast items. Lunch is mostly rice and curry. Sometimes asafoetida is used in curries, snacks and pickles, please make sure you ask your host if “Heeng” is there in the food. Before eating Dosa, please confirm they don’t have any “Maida” in it. Some smaller stores, to cut costs and to make a quick batter, may add maida to the dosa batter.
Thanks for replying, Anupama!
Nice information regarding gluten-free Diet in India..
You said HING has gluten contain but in Maharashtra (India) hing is always used in chutneys and Masale
Being cealiac deceased I am shocked after reading your article…
So Pls can you explain how hing has gluten contain?
Hi Ravindra, There is some more information here https://tastessence.com/asafoetida-substitute but I was told in person as well in Rajasthan that the hing is often cut with wheat flour, though in the South sometimes rice flour. I believe it is during the processing / packaging, not of course grown “as” contaminated.
I have found two types of hing in stores. One has wheat content and another has
rice . So check before buying.
I am on an Indian vegetarian diet trying to eliminate gluten from my food. Being Indian and the lack of awareness of gluten free food, I am finding it appallingly difficult to find information on everyday food to be gluten free or not. I notice you have eaten onion and garlic freely – but the interwebs says these should be avoided ? So does the low FODMAP diet. What are your views on this ?
Hi there, onions and garlic are perfectly safe for celiacs/gluten free, unless they are battered or fried with flour to thicken like some toppings have. But to add garlic and onions to food is not a problem for diagnosed celiacs unless they have something else going on. I am not following a low FODMAP diet, but that is a different issue altogether.
It is very difficult to be gluten free Northern India (easier in the south), especially as hing can be cut with wheat. Have you looked at the celiac societies for more information?
Thanks for your hugely helpful blog, I look forward to using it in India later this month!
Gluten free in North of India – As you have advised mainly rice, millet, corn based diet, but what about patients with coeliac disease with diabetes where riceis advised to be avoided, secondly millet and corn based foods are usually eaten during winter
Hi there, I can’t advise as to the patients with both celiac and diabetes, as this is not my area / what I have been dealing with. I would think that complex carbs are better – so, millet and buckwheat and teff instead of white rice – but I would consult a doctor on that one.
Thank You soooo much Jodi! I will be traveling to Northern India soon and will definitely have your blog, esp. this page with me, as I need to be gluten-free!
This is an amazing piece of write-up Jodi, although I don’t have any issues with Gluten food but am amazed at the amount of effort/time you have put in for everyone who is looking for a ‘Gluten Free’ travel to India.
There is another item called ‘Bhagar’ (Maharashtra) or Shama (Rajasthan) ‘Shama Rice’ & ‘Barnyard Millet’ (English) we make a ‘Khichdi’ of the Shama rice and is mostly consumed during the fasting. In fact, this khichdi preparation is so good that my only reason for going for fasting is that I’ll get to eat it daily.
Thanks for this post. It really helps me.